A Vegan’s Voyage: Plant-Based Gems in Paris and Aix-en-Provence

Paris and Aix-en-Provence—two cities synonymous with culinary excellence, and rich food traditions. But can they deliver for plant-based food enthusiasts? Familiar with global vegan trends—especially in Europe—I was confident that these iconic French destinations would not disappoint. From cozy cafés to innovative bistros, we had delicious, ethical, and nourishing meals—everything was très bon! Vegan or curious? Join me on a flavorful journey through two of France’s most enchanting cities for amazing plant-based dining!

France’s Plant-Based Shift

France is becoming increasingly plant-based friendly, with meat consumption steadily declining and demand for plant-based proteins on the rise. A survey found that 68% of French consumers aim to reduce their meat intake, while 27% regularly incorporate plant-based alternatives into their diets. Findings also showed that the primary motives for reducing meat or dairy consumption are health (38%), animal welfare (30%), and the environment (29%).

On the commercial front there are more signs of that progress. McDonald’s France has introduced Beyond Meat’s Veggie McPlant nuggets to its menu. The Spanish plant-based brand Heura has opened a shop in Paris to promote the health benefits of meat-free diets. Jay & Joy, France’s first vegan fromagerie, is known for its plant-based cheeses, which are crafted with artisanal techniques and sold nationwide. Beyond Meat is also launching its plant-based Beyond Steak in France. Foie gras—produced through the inhumane force-feeding of ducks or geese—is facing increasing bans across France, with Pessac being the latest city to impose restrictions. As The Times noted, “French consumers are growing increasingly queasy about force-feeding, even in the southwestern heartland of foie gras.” In a win for the vegan movement, the EU’s top court recently ruled that France cannot ban the use of ‘meat’ terms for plant-based products.

Vegan in Paris

As always, I did my homework before traveling, reading vegan travel blogs and exploring Happy Cow for restaurant options in Paris and Aix-en-Provence. The results were promising—Paris alone boasts over 80 fully vegan restaurants, far surpassing the number in our home city of Chicago (which is, by the way, much larger). With so many choices, we were excited to try as many as possible.

A Taste of Shojin Ryori at Graines du Jour

On our first day in Paris, we strolled through the city’s bustling streets before arriving at Graines du Jour, a vegan café. Though the kitchen was closed, the staff graciously made us a special meal after learning it was our first in the city. Their dishes are inspired by the shojin ryori culinary tradition of Japanese Buddhist monks, which is rooted in compassion to all sentient beings. This cuisine balances five colors, five tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five cooking methods (raw, stewed, boiled, roasted or grilled, and steamed). The result is refined and flavorful dishes made from fresh, local ingredients.

Our impromptu lunch featured a harmonious assortment of rice, soup, tempura, pickles, and homemade tofu, all based on the chef’s inspiration. Each dish was unique and remarkable.

We finished with an Almondccino, a cappuccino with their house-made almond milk, and a wonderful chocolate brioche—simply divine!

After the meal we had a fascinating conversation with the chef about shojin ryori cuisine. It left me inspired to bring a touch of this nuanced and mindful approach into my own kitchen.

A Sweet Start: Cloud Cakes

Our preferred breakfast spot in Paris was Cloud Cakes—a charming vegan café and bakery with an irresistible menu. We savored the Acai bowl topped with granola and fresh fruit, tofu scramble with pancakes served with avocado and salad, and my personal favorite, their signature breakfast. This yummy platter featured a flaky croissant, nut bread with various spreads, fresh juice, and a steaming cup of cappuccino. Everything was absolutely delicious and nourishing! With my sweet tooth, I only wish I had more time in Paris to sample all their pastries.

Dinner: Végét’Halles

After exploring the Marais, we had dinner at  Végét’Halles which serves mostly vegan dishes (and some vegetarian). We indulged in seitan kebab skewers paired with ginger-marinated vegetables, rice, and lentils; linguine tossed in a rich mushroom pesto with pan-fried breaded soy steak. The portions were generous, and every dish was bursting with flavor. For dessert, we treated ourselves to coconut milk chia pudding with mango coulis and fresh fruit—a perfect ending to a long day wandering the magical streets of Paris.

More Vegan Finds in Paris

We explored many fantastic vegan restaurants and cafés while visiting Paris, far more than I could list here. In Montmartre, we liked Imagine, which emphasizes nutritious, wholesome dishes. Le Potager du Marais impressed us with its vegan take on traditional French bistro food. Wild & The Moon, a plant-based, organic, and gluten-free chain, offered delicious options in great locations. And based on where we were, we also enjoyed visiting non-vegan cafés, where vegan coffee and desserts were a pleasant surprise. A week in Paris wasn’t enough to explore its vegan scene, and we can’t wait to return for more!

Vegan in Aix-en-Provence

Our next stop was Aix-en-Provence, where we anticipated a fresh, local cuisine—and that’s what we found.

A Warm Welcome at Horaé

Before our trip, we reserved a table at Horaé for our first night. Run by two young women, this vegan restaurant serves seasonal dishes crafted from local, organic ingredients. For our first course, we enjoyed a leek, lemon, and mustard crumble topped with walnut crisp, plus cauliflower, leek, and potato soup with garlic croutons. The main course, a hearty chili featuring beans, tofu, and an array of vegetables and spices, and for dessert a pudding with figs, all provided a satisfying finale to our tiring day. With warm, welcoming service and a friendly restaurant dog named Joy, Horaé quickly became a favorite.

A Perfect Morning: Café du Temps

Breakfast options in Aix were plentiful, but Café du Temp was our go-to spot. This charming vegetarian café offers excellent coffee along with vegan delights. We couldn’t get enough of the fluffy pancakes and granola served with vegan yogurt, fresh fruit, and nuts, and we often returned in the afternoons for more cappuccinos and delicious vegan desserts.

Hidden Gems: La Plume Végétale & La Cabane en Ville

Another gem we discovered was La Plume Végétale, a cozy vegan eatery committed to ingredients that are organic, locally grown and fair trade, and do not involve animal exploitation. Their menu featured creative dishes like yummy scrambled tofu with beetroot hummus. Their tiramisu was simply unforgettable—the friendly owner even shared all its ingredients, inspiring me to recreate it at home.

We also loved La Cabane en Ville, a vegan restaurant run by one person who greets, serves, and cooks! The lasagna and chocolate mousse dessert were standouts, and if I lived in Aix, I’d be a regular.

Vegan-Friendly Shopping & Markets

If you prefer cooking at home, both Paris and Aix offer neighborhood produce markets. These markets are brimming with fresh fruits, vegetables, and even an amazing selection of mushrooms—like the one we saw in Aix.

The Joy of Vegan Travel

I encourage you to travel with a conscience—choose plant-based options that protect both animals and the environment, not to mention your health. Vegan travel isn’t just ethical; it’s a rewarding and delicious adventure!

Happy travels! 🌱

Photographs by Marc Perlish Photography